Israeli Soul

Starred review from May 21, 2018
In the follow-up to their 2016 James Beard Award–winning Zahav, chef Solomonov and his business partner Cook (together they have a string of restaurants in Philadelphia) mine the melting pot of Israel for the 70-year-old country’s classic meals. Dishes are examined with quasi-Talmudic love. The history of the sabich—an Iraqi Jewish sandwich of fried eggplant and hard-boiled eggs in pita—is related in rapturous detail (“the story of sabich springs from the well of Jewish life”). There are recipes for its various components, including crispy fried eggplant and variations on amba, the traditional mango pickle (photos illustrate proper sandwich construction). Popular casual spots in Israel are profiled, and broader chapters on salads—including a radish and zucchini salad, as well as pickled watermelon—and Ashkenazi food, which tends to be overshadowed by Sephardic choices in Israel, are equally generous (e.g., pickled mackerel, cured trout). Persian meatballs with beets, Bulgarian lamb and beef kabobs, and flaky Yemenite malawach flatbread are temptingly presented. Desserts include malabi milk pudding and coconut basboosa, a semolina cake soaked in syrup. Whether cracking a joke about hummus (“After almost 1,000 years, people are pretty much okay with where hummus is at. It doesn’t need to be deconstructed”) or offering thorough guidance for crafting pita dough, this duo strikes a heartwarming, enthusiastic tone. Expect this offering to be as successful as Zahav.

Starred review from September 15, 2018
Whether they're seeking an entertaining travelogue, an engrossing gourmet history, or an amazing collection of admirably imitable Israeli cuisine, readers won't be disappointed by Philadelphia chef Solomonov and his business partner Cook's (Federal Donuts, 2017; Zahav, 2015) third collection. It's easy to be mesmerized by their descriptions; for example. In Israel, hummus basically comes out of the faucets; the eggplant and egg Sabich sandwich is the story of Israel stuffed into a pita; and seltzer is the Jewish champagne. Readers will be lured by the step-by-step photographs of the makings of, for example, tehina sauce, Jerusalem bagels (fluffy versus boiled), and the Jerusalem mixed grill. They might even vow to immediately board a plane to sample the dozens of mentioned restaurants in Israel and Philadelphia?all quick to locate on the "Israel Soul Odyssey" map, included upfront. Directions for the 100 or so recipes can be found both within the narrative and on stand-alone pages; each more than lives up to the subtitle, Easy, Essential, Delicious. Please, sirs, when will more appear?(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2018, American Library Association.)

Starred review from August 1, 2018

The latest cookbook from James Beard Award-winning Solomonov and his business partner Cook (Federal Donuts; Zahav) serves as both a culinary tour of Israel and an accessible entry to preparing its most beloved foods. Chapters highlight falafel, shawarma, hummus, salads, and other classics in varied recipes and riffs that encourage experimentation. Step-by-step photographs illustrating key methods will help new cooks feel confident in preparing stuffed grape leaves, borekas, pita bread, and other dishes. With an emphasis on familiar favorites, it also contains a multitude of inventive condiments, drinks, and desserts that won't be found in other titles. VERDICT A capable blend of history, memoir, restaurant profiles, travel photography, and fabulous Israeli cuisine.

Copyright 2018 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.